Keel Cap Nearly Finished.

Ok Guys

I've been a bit busy the last few days. After roughing out the blank for the keel cap I marked out the keel centre line and the outline of the centre plate slot. I then marked out two lines 1/2" apart centred on the centre line for the stainless steel keel band to run between. I then marked lines along the sides of the keel cap 1/4" up from the bottom of the keel cap. These lines were marked out with a marking gauge and were used as a guide to plane a bevel on the keel cap.

On the 2 1/2" section of the keel cap that houses the centre plate slot a marking gauge was used to mark a line one both sides 1/8" in from the outer edge as a guide to bevel the keel cap. A piece of flexible batten was used to mark curved lines to give a smooth transition between bevel lines of the 2 1/2" centre plate section and the 2" keel cap section.

Holes were drilled every 12" along the cap to allow it to be screwed to the hull when being glued. Holes were spaced at 3" intervals at the bow end where the hull curve is greater. The keel cap was screwed to the hull. Where the cap has to narrow towards the bow this curve was marked using a pencil.

The keel cap was then removed and all the bevels where rough planed. The cap was refitted to the hull marked and adjusted a few times to get it right.

I will wait until the keel cap is glued to the hull before I sand it back to get a perfect flush finish.

Keel Cap Blank Roughed Out

Hi folks,

Been a bit busy the last few days not in wife's best books she's become a bit of a boat widow but I have to get on or the boat won't be finished before I have to move house.

I rough planed two 10' sawn planks straight and square and scarf joined they to make one 20' x 3" x 5/8" plank. I need to made a blank with a 2 1/2" wide section for the centre plate that tapers to 2"at either end. The blank must be 3/8" thick I know this will lead to a lot of wast but it gives me plenty of material to true it up.

First I marked out the plan profile on the blank then roughed it out with the power plane and finished it with a hand plane. That done I plane the blank down to a thickness of about 7/16" with the power plane.

That's about as far as I got yesterday I need to hand finish it down to 3/8" tonight test fit on boat and make adjustments. This done I will mark and rough plane the side profile before gluing the keel cap onto the boat.

Sorry I haven't got photo's of the scarf joint being made I forgot to bring the camera that day.

See what you think.

Preparing the Hull for the Keel Cap

Hi folk's

Well I've started to plane the flat I have to make to bond the keel cap onto. The keel cap will cover the end grain of the veneers. I started with my power plane to rough out the shape then finished up with hand planes.

Once I have finished planing the hull I need to prep the two planks I bought for the keel cap. They need planing up and scarf joining to make a 20' plank which will then be marked out with the keel cap profile.

Keel cap

Hi guy's,

the timber I ordered for the keel and the gunnel's has arrived also the micro spheres so I can give the rough spots a quick skim.

I have marked out the width of the keel cap on the hull 2 1/2" around the centre plate tapering to 2" at stern. Going forward to the stem from the plate case I have tapered down to 2" but this will get narrower. So I will plane down until I just touch the top of the keel and try to and keep an even gap between the marked lines. I keep checking the keel for a fair curve using a batten but mainly just check by eye.

I ordered the timber sawn to save on cost so I'll plane it up by hand, it will take a bit longer but saved me about £25 that will probably buy two deck beams.

Hull patched.

Hi Folks,

Thanks for the comment you left Andrew.

I have patched the hull but the finish is just not good enough for a bright finish. I have a couple of small low spots but I'm afraid I'll sand through if I go on sanding. So I have ordered some west system filler to give these areas a light skim. It only needs a light skim where the grain is a bit coarse.

I have also ordered the timber I need to cap the keel. I ordered it sawn not planed because I'm watching the costs credit crunch and that.

I'm just going to epoxy coat the the hull and paint it red well they say red cars are faster. I'll clear finish the decks and interior.

Getting close to removing the boat from the mould now, not sure what to do with the mould. I have to move with my job at end of the year would be a shame to break it up, maybe somebody could give it a good home learn from my mistakes and build another jollyboat.

End in Sight.

hi folks,

Haven't posted for a while. Mainly still sanding but now the hull is close to fair now. That took longer than I thought it would. Still got some sanding to do but only a couple of weeks worth at the most. Then I will patch the voids using scarf jointed patches.

I will post some photos when I can.

No Clear finish.

Hi Guy's,

Well I've blown it I have found two more voids one right on the transom. These are full of epoxy but the areas of coarse grain are still there so it must go right through the veneer. Overall this side of the hull is fair still a couple of low spots but they are quite small. So I am going to use West System Micro balloons as a filler to final fair the hull.

I am disappointed but I made compromises early on mainly due to cost, time and inexperience that I am paying for now. Well I'll know next time. The one good point is I won't have so much varnishing to do though I wood still like to have a clear finish on the decks and interior.

I'll know for the next one I build.

Still no luck finding a trailer.

Well onward.